Makeup Artist Sam Fine Launches A Signature Collection & Talks Beauty Rules & Challenges

Sam Fine's know for painting the faces of celebs like Gabrielle Union, who he was working with this week, Jennifer Hudson, Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell, and now after 20 years of working in the industry and a year of working with Fashion Fair Cosmetics as Creative Director, he's finally been given the opportunity to create a signature line.  I spoke with Fine about his beauty influences, rules and common makeup challenges for African American women. What have been your go-to cosmetics and tools over the years?

I’ve invested in several Shu Uemura brushes that I’ve had my entire career! Making investments in good tools is the beginning of every great makeup kit. I’ve also used cream foundations like, Fashion Fair’s Perfect Finish since the beginning of my career… and I still keep Brown Blaze Glo in my kit!

How have your travels influenced your new cosmetic line?

Throughout my career, I’ve traveled to many exotic locales… And most recently, I’ve traveled to Tokyo, Mumbai, Russia, Madrid, London and Brazil on a promotional tour and witnessed varying standards of beauty. My travels have helped me to curate a color collection that will inspire women around the world to enjoy rich, beautiful color!

What are some of the biggest makeup mistakes women of color make?

How are you going to find what works if you don’t make a few mistakes along the way? I appreciate the attempts made by each woman who picks up a new lipstick or eye shadow and steps outside her comfort zone!

One of the most challenging aspects of makeup for women of color is finding the right foundation formula and shade. Also, finding formulas – lipstick, eyeshadow - that payoff and appear rich against the rich hue of brown skin. These may be challenges, but many companies are beginning to expand their offerings for women of color, making it easier to put their best face forward.

What's your #1 rule when it comes to applying makeup?

Practice makes perfect and with any craft, the more you do it, the better you become. There is no art you can perfect without practice.

What's your favorite product in your line and why?

If I had to choose a favorite product in my collection, it would be the Supreme Eye Color Quads! Each quad contains four richly pigmented shadows with two, sometimes three different formulas – iridescent, shimmering and matte; the versatility is amazing!

Alicia Keys's Makeup Artist Masters Casual Chic at Sundance, Get Her Look

I'm still questioning why I didn't pull a surprise appearance at Sundance this year like Alicia Keys.  Not that I belonged there for any other reason than to party and snowmobile like a maniac (see post from last year), but I'm a promise to myself not to miss it again!  Alicia Keys however, surprised everyone by appearing at the premiere of The Inevitable Defeat of Mister and Pete, the film she produced.  I got the scoop from her makeup artist,  Nick Barose on how he kept her looking fresh for her big moment. To give Alicia a very natural, glowing flush, Barose first applied Votre Vu Love Me Deux in St. Tropez.  I personally love this 2-in-1 because it's a lightweight tinted moisturizer with a matching concealer in the cap.  Then, he lightly dusted the peachy pink blush from the Beaute en Bronze blush/bronzer duo across her cheeks to add a bit of shimmer.

For her eyes, he lined her waterline as well as below her inner rim and smudged it out a bit to give definition to her eyes while still keeping it soft and simple topping off her lashes with two coats of mascara.

To keep her look consistent, he applied Vu-On Rouge in Bouquet Rose, which is a light neutral pink that can be used on your lips or cheeks.  I love how she looks appropriately done up for such a casual event.

Emily Blunt's Makeup Artist Reveals the Secrets Behind Her Flawless Complexion

I just got off the phone with Emily Blunt's makeup artist, Jenn Streicher, because I had to know the secret behind her completely flawless complexion.  Since I currently have dry skin like Emily, I'm about ready to swipe my vanity and replace my products with everything she uses on her.  Streicher gave me the scoop on prepping for star for the Golden Globes and the miracle products behind her look. "I've been working with Emily for years so it makes it nice and easy," Streicher comments.  "It's always a collaborative effort."  Since Emily's dress was a bit edgy, they decided to go more elegant with the hair and makeup.  The whole look was clean.

Streicher's a big skin person.  The night before a big event she gives Emily a SK II Facial Treatment Mask for added hydration.  "It's great if she's been traveling and really does wonders to rehydrate the skin."

To prep before makeup, she uses Kate Somerville Quench Hydrating Face Serum underneath Creme de La Mer  and La Mer Eye Concentrate.  The combination is a hydration powerhouse. To ensure a flawless application, primer is one of her go-to products and Streicher relies on Hourglass #28 Primer Serum.  "It's great because it has 28 essential oils in it, so again, it's hydrating and and gives off luminosity," she says.

"On the red carpet you don't want to look like you're wearing foundation," Streicher explains.  "I blended out a tinted moisturizer using a wet sponge on Emily to achieve a nice finish."  Using the Beauty Blender, she wet it and then rung it out to press the foundation (Hourglass Illusion Tinted Moisturizer) into the skin and blend it out.

Kaley Cuoco's Makeup Artist's Secrets from Backstage the People's Choice Awards

It's no doubt that Kaley Cuoco's a power house.  The actress has been killing it on The Big Bang Theory, was named one of the hottest girls on TV by Maxim and just hosted the People's Choice Awards with five outfit changes.  This afternoon I chatted with her makeup artist, Jamie Greenberg, about working behind the scenes with Kaley and how she kept her looking fresh all night long.  There were mustaches involved... The scene: Greenberg and the rest of Kaley's glam squad met at 2pm to begin primping.  "What you see is what you get with Kaley," Greenberg stated.  "She's always positive and her mood doesn't sway with what job she's doing, but since she was hosting the show, we were super excited."  She made us pink hoodies that read "Touchdown" on the back because each time she does something great we all say "Touchdown."  Greenberg brought tiara's and fake mustaches and Kaleys hair stylist brought T-shrits with prints of her dog on them that read, "Team Cuoco."  Positive energy filled the room.

Kaley's Look: "Since she was hosting we wanted to do something different and went with a '60's mod vibe channeling Sophia Loren for the carpet," Greenberg commented.  She had a peek at Kaley's five dresses a week prior while shooting a Toyota commercial with her and began brainstorming.  A cat eye and bump in her hair were the foundation, then for the show it was all about changing the texture of the lip and cheek along with the hair.  Her go-to product was the Mark Touch & Glow Shimmer Cream Cubes.  "I just smooshed my brush into the cubes and kept adding more color onto her cheeks," she says.  "It made a big difference with each look."

Staying Fresh: Throughout the night, Kaley rocked five different looks and Greenberg was responsible for making sure she stayed looking fresh.  Here's how:

1. Because Kaley has sensitive skin, she used gentle makeup removing wipes by Proactiv that get the job done without irritation.
2. During touch ups, she misted Kaley's face with Jurlique Rose Water Balancing Mist to keep the skin fresh and powder from looking cakey.
3.  To keep her looking awake, she dabbed a bit of Fresh Black Tea Age Delay Eye Cream under her eyes before reapplying concealer.  This move acted like a 4pm cup of coffee, keeping Kaley's under eye area hydrated and plump all night.

5 Things to Add to Your Holiday Wish List from Makeup Artist, Mai Quynh

I first met Mai Quynh, an LA based celebrity makeup artist, at an event in NYC about a year ago and we hit it off right away.   She helped me brainstorm ideas and tips for an upcoming Today Show segment on holiday glamour and since, she's been one of my go-to experts. Painting the faces of celebs like Ashley Greene, Emma Stone, Reese Witherspoon and Ginnifer Goodwin, she's a red carpet essential.  Here are five things she recommends adding to your holiday wish list.1. Paleta food delivery and juices

It's a way to eat healthy while supporting local farms. I love it because it helps me eat healthy throughout the day. Some days I'm super busy running around that I don't have enough time to get food, except for fast food-no thanks! They also cater to vegans, vegetarians, gluten-free, and dairy free.  Sarah Chalke introduced me to the system.

2. Mark Make it Rich Lip Crayons

I love these highly pigmented, long wearing lip crayons. They go on smooth and lasts for hours without smudging. The colors range from neutrals to bold, bright colors. For a precise application, apply the outer edges with a lip brush.  I used these on Kristen Stewart at the Toronto International Film Festival for her On the Road premiere

3. Glo Brilliant Personal Teeth Whitening System

This is an home teeth whitening system that will give you professional results. It's the best way to keep you teeth bright and look younger without having surgery.

4. 3.1 Phillip Lim Pashli Satchel in Burgundy

This tote bag is perfect for your daytime needs and can even hold your laptop. I love this beautiful wine color and I love the zipper details in the front. WIne is the new black!

5. Mark Very Sassy Eau de Parfum

I love the smell of this perfume. It has a light floral scent with a hint of black currant. I think it's a perfect mixture of sophistication and flirtiness.  I like to layer the Very Sassy Lotion on my skin, before spraying on the fragrance. That way, it will ensure that it will last all day.

Get the Look: Keira Knightley, A Classic Beauty

Keira Knightley looked stunning last night at the NYC premiere of Anna Karenina in a black, lace Valentino gown with a rich, raspberry lip.  In my opinion, she killed it.  I rarely cover celeb looks from premieres, because to be honest, I don't like most of them, but this one is flawless and wearable.  I got the scoop on what she's wearing from lashes to lips from her makeup artist, Kate Lee for Chanel.  Here's the rundown. Blush: Lipstick was used as a cream blush.  A great tip I gave on the Wendy Williams show this Monday!  Product used: Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour in La Caline.

Shadow: Kate created natural depth in the sockets by lining Keira's upper lids with Laura Mercier Caviar Eyeliner in Midnight and then used Chanel Quadra Eyeshadow in Lagons.  After blending out the the line past the corner of her eyes, she used a nude shade on the top of her lips.

Brows: Brows are everything and Keira has perfectly groomed face framing ones thanks to Lee.  She used Anastasia's Tinted Brow Gel and made them more precise with Chanel Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil in Brun Naturel before blending with a small angled brush.

Mascara:  After curling the lashes, two coates of Chanel Le Volume de Chanel Mascara in Noir was applied.

Lips: First, Kate stained Keira's lips with Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous Intense lip Color in Palpitante and then applied a coat of Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Lipshine in Rebelle to add a bit of sheen.  I'm obsessed.

Alessandra Ambrosio Talks French Kiss Lips & the Million Dollar Bra Backstage the VS Fashion Show

After waiting for makeup artist, Tom Pecheux to finish Alessandra's makeup, I nabbed the first interview with the power duo! This is my third year covering backstage for Victoria's Secret and each time I try to bring you something new. This, by far, is a fun clip. Stay tuned as there's much more to come!

How to Wear A Dark, Berry Lip this Fall

Spotted: Dark, berry lips backstage at the fall 2012 fashion shows of Donna Karan, YSL and Gucci. The vampy trend is a throwback that originated in a much more romantic way in the 1920's, resurfaced as Gothic glam the '90's and is now influenced by vampire culture, in a modern, yet feminine way.  As of late, I've been receiving a surplus amount of these pigments to test out, and spoke with Giorgio Armani's Celebrity Makeup Artist, Tim Quinn to find out how to rock the trend the right way. Tip 1: Find the Right Shade

"For the dark berry lip I look to all the elements; hair, skin and eye color," Quinn explains.  "Cranberry tones work well on fairer complexions and blackberry shades work well on both dark complexions as well as the very fair skinned, dark haired beauties."  His favorite is the Armani Rouge d'Armani Lipsticks, specifically Rouge #408.  I've been wearing Mark Make It Rich Lip Color Crayon in Peony.  It works for my skintone, but they have berry shades that flatter all for only $11.

Tip 2: Choose the Right Texture

Sheer? Glossy? Matte?  Who gives?  You have to!  This fall it's all about a saturated matte finish.  This way, it doesn't compete with the textures of your fall wardrobe.  The pigment compliments it.

Tip 3: Stay in Control

When going bold on the lip keep the rest of your makeup simple as the dark lip needs to remain your focal point.  "Not too smokey on the eyes, not too much color on the cheeks, and make sure that you wear the lip with confidence," Quinn states.

J. Lo's Makeup Artist Gave Me the Scoop On Oscar Day and How To Apply Winged Liner

"I just left Jennifer's house," said J. Lo's makeup artist, Mary Phillips said as I answered up the phone.  Just two days after the Oscars she was following Miss Lopez to American Idol.  Along the way, I was thankful she had time to call me and give the Oscar scoop I was after.   J. Lo's glam squad arrived at her house at noon to begin prepping her for the red carpet. "When we got there she had a breakfast buffet laid out for us and we ate as she tried on a few dress options," Phillips explained.  The songstresses team consisted of Phillips, her hairstlyist, manicurist and two stylists.  "We collaboratively work together all the time and put together one look as a unit," Phillips said.  "In the end, Jennifer makes the decision."  It only to them an hour to get her ready and she left her house around 2:30 to hit the red carpet.

The result? Stunning.  J. Lo at her best.  The look was 60's inspired, but after working with J. Lo for six years, Phillips knew better than to make her skin matte.  What caught my attention was her winged eyeliner.  I spotted this look on the Fall 2012 runways just a few weeks ago and at the Oscars, other leading ladies like  Emma Stone, Angelina Jolie and Zoe Saldana also embraced the trend.

Here's Phillips' winged liner how to:

1.  Draw a line with from the inner corner of your upper lid to the outer making it thicker as you near the middle and extend.  She used L’Oreal Paris Voluminous Smoldering Eyeliner in Brown on J. Lo.

2. "You want the eye to have a lifting effect," she states.  Create an illusion of lift by drawing upwards by placing your pencil at the outer corner of your eye where your bottom rim ends and using that as a guide to draw upward.  The key is to keep it delicate and light.

3. If you're doing heavy shadow along with the winged liner then just do a nude lip like J. Lo. However, you can also wear winged liner and mascara with a bright, bold lip like Angelina Jolie or Zoe Saldana did.

5 Minutes with Celeb Makeup Artist, Brigitte Reiss-Andersen

In the midst of NYFW I got to pick the brain of Celebrity Makeup Artist, Brigitte Reiss-Andersen, who's credited for making under Nicole Scherzinger in January Allure.  Did you see that?  The girl is stunning without all of her flair.  It didn't surprise me!  Andersen dished on her makeup must-haves, celebrity fave and most exciting project yet.  Check it out. During fashion week and one of the things that amaze me the most is how the models run around to a ton of shows each day and have their makeup layered on and then taken off over and over again.  How are they steering clear of breakouts and keeping their skin looking fresh and healthy?

Oh, those girls are not by any means immune to spots and irritations. The smart ones bring their own makeup remover guaranteed not to irritate their skin. If a girl is lucky and goes from a show where she had literally no makeup to one where there's a stronger look, she won’t need to take it off and the makeup artist can "build" upon it. In general though, it is essential for them to keep their skin clean and well taken care of, which most do. And don’t forget, these girls are 18-23 years old.

I know you've worked with a ton of celebrities including Cindy Crawford.  What was the last project you worked with her on and what was the goal of the look?

The last job I did with Cindy was a cover and a story for Vogue Mexico a few months ago. I wanted her to look a little less glamorous and a little more edgy. The look was strong with a graphic emphasis on the eyes. And of course I let the beautiful quality of her skin shine through and glow.

I know she's a model and in print airbrushing can do wonders, but I've met her in person and she really does look like she's 30!  As her makeup artist, what tricks are there to make someone appear younger?

To look more youthful, your skin should look radiant and luminous. It’s that simple. Children have the extraordinary advantage of having superb, reflective complexion. And you know what? You can wear ANY kind of makeup as long as your skin remains natural and glowing. The downfall is when women want to wear more makeup for the sake of staying glamorous and they slather thick, heavy foundations and chalky powder on their skin. It instantly ages you, no matter how young you are. So in order to keep looking young, women need to take good care of their skin. A product such as the Meaningful Beauty Glowing Serum can help women achieve this natural radiance.

What are the top three must-haves in your kit and why?

I try not to get too attached to products so I don’t get stuck in a makeup rut. By changing things up I discover new tricks, fresh ideas and fun concepts. This way I always have some favorite toys. At the moment they are:

- Clinique’s Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm. Great, smart product. Fun colors, it does indeed moisturize the lips and with the twist-up packaging you don’t need to sharpen it!

- Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour cream – the original lip gloss. I also use it to shine up eyelids for shoots.

- RMS cream eye shadow. They are easy to use, sheer and luminous and come in great shades.

You've accomplished so many things so far, what project was the most fun to work on?

Gosh, I have been part of so many incredible projects! To single one out is hard because sometimes it has to do with working with a fascinating photographer like Helmut Newton, or a favorite model or celebrity. But I recently strayed quite far from my comfort zone by venturing into TV. I was part of a great docu-drama show on E! called "Scouted". The premise had to do with pretty girls getting discovered somewhere in America and getting a chance to perhaps become models in NY. I was doing the girls makeup for their tests. It was very challenging but lots of fun. I always enjoy a good old makeover on a regular person! But I did it from a fashion point of view, since they were supposed to look like models on a shoot, which added a whole different dimension. It’s instant gratification to see how miraculous the change can be and the joy it can bring.

Vogue 'CoverGirl' Taylor Swift Wears Revlon, The Truth Behind Magazine Cover Credits

Last week while at the Revlon event I recently blogged about, I had my makeup done by Gucci Westman, the same makeup artists who did Taylor Swift's makeup for her February Vogue cover shoot.  (I know, I was honored!)  Of course, finding this out I had to ask her details about the shoot and products that were used and as I was getting the 411 I realized, I felt conflicted reporting them as it was more than the makeup that bothered me.  However, as a blogger here I go... It's a dirty industry and here's the scoop.  Westman filled me in on how she took Taylor Swift's look from the innocent girl we know her as and transformed her into a more mature woman for Vogue.  Her trick: contouring.  Normally we see Swift with a pale complexion and a pop of color on the apples of her cheeks, which screams girly.  Using Revlon Illuminance Creme Shadow in Not Just Nudes, she contoured Swift's cheeks making her Vogue appropriate.

Now, if you look inside Vogue and go to page 64 where you see "Cover Look Taylor Made" you'll notice that all CoverGirl makeup was credited for creating her look.  No mention of Revlon at all.  Of course, with Swift having a contract with CoverGirl, this has to be.  However, when I used to work at Cosmopolitan, the cover credits never matched up, contract or not.  Here's what we'd do...

We'd get a proof of the cover shot from the art department and look and see which magazine advertiser could use a boost in credits that month.  Then, from that advertising cosmetic's latest collection, we'd match up the look the best we could.  Of course, the art department would work with us to enhance a lip or touch up a shadow if needed.

Of course, Swift's whole package makes her a perfect Spokeswoman for CoverGirl, but on shoots and tours, you'd be super naive to think that that's all she wears.  This is just one case in point and an explanation of cover credits.  As a journalist and blogger who's free of being owned by advertisers, it's nice to be able to report the truth.  Cover credits are never the truth.

I Surrendered to Celebrity Makeup Artist, Gucci Westman for This Photo Shoot

Last week I attended a Revlon event with makeup artist Gucci Westman and ended up in a photo shoot wearing green eyeshadow.  I was super stoked to attend, because Westman is a celebrity makeup artist that I always interview backstage at NY fashion week, but never have quality time with her.  The fact that she was doing my makeup had me so excited that I surrendered to her talent and wound up with green eyeshadow!

Being a girl who never wears color on her eyes, I was frightened when I saw what she was doing at first using Revlon ColorStay EyeShadow in Luscious, but trust me, you don't question Westman.  The shadow palette is brand new and has 16 hours of staying power.  My finished look consisted of mossy green runway eyes complimented by Revlon ColorBurst Lip Color in Gumdrop, which I loved and natural skin.

My eyeliner was fierce and I loved it. I always have trouble with eyeliner.  It never stays put on my inner rims!  "When you line the upper and lower inner rims it makes your liner last longer," Westman explained.  "The color transfers from one water line to the other."  She used Revlon Luxorious Color Eyeliner in Black Velvet, which was strikingly black and super sexy.  It lasts all night long!

Of course, the above pics are from my photo shoot, which you can see I couldn't stop laughing.  Sorry you can't really see the eye makeup, but posing was super awk!

Get the Look: Kate Beckinsale's Sexy Bohemian Eyes

I think Kate Beckinsale is one of the most beautiful women in the world.  Last night for the Underworld: Awakening premiere in LA she wore an embellished gold Jenny Packham gown and had her handsome husband, Len Wiseman by her side.  Makeup Artist, Molly Stern was inspired by her gown giving her an "elegant meets bohemian look," resulting in lit from within skin with a soft, yet sexy edge.  My favorite part was Kate's eyes and I got the step-by-step from Stern on how to recreate them. To start, using a cream cheek colour brush, Stern used my favorite tinted moisturizer by Laura Mercier in Fawn to enhance her natural glow.  She swiped it along her forehead, cheeks and chin and then blended and dabbled it into her crevices with a triangle sponge.  For an added touch of radiance, Stern highlighted her cheekbones for a nice accent and the bridge of her nose.  Highlighting the center bridge of the nose can help play down any wideness, just stay away from the tip.  On her lips,  Laura Mercier Baby Doll Shimmering Lip Glacé.

Now for the eyes!  To compliment the gold gown, Stern used a combination of violet eyeshadows and a mahogany liner.  Using a flat shadow brush she based Kate's lid up to the crease with  Laura Mercier Luster Eye Colour in African Violet and then deepened the lid at the lash line and up into the crease with a denser shadow brush to deposit more color using a deeper violet shadow.  To bring the shape of Kate's eye up and out, Stern used a thin, pointed liner brush and lined her top and bottom lashes with Laura Mercier Tightline Cake Liner in Mahogany Brown, which was followed by two coats of mascara.