BeautySweetSpot — Jeannine Morris

backstage beauty

Betsey Johnson's Backstage Party

Betsey Johnson is always one of my favorite shows to cover.  Backstage is like a party. There's a DJ, candy, little champagne bottles to drink with straws, balloons everywhere and signs that Betsey created to get the glam squad, models and her stylists pumped for the show.  Of course they're all signed "xo Betsey." The designer was debuting her "He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not" collection on Valentine's Day. Peter Gray was the lead for Redken who worked with angled, blunt black bob wigs inspired by the Sassoon movie.  Of course just a simple wig for a Betsey Johnson show wasn't enough, so the team spray painted a dust of gold around a lace pattern to add a fresh fun feel.  To keep the wig looking shiny as the models walked the runway, Gray used Redken Shine Flash 02.

Butter London's Nonie took charge of the nails customizing a shade with the working title, Wallis inspired by Wallis Simpson, which is definitely going to go in production in the fall.  It's a tarnished greenish gold.

Charlotte Miller was the lead for Maybelline who used the Studio Eye Quad in Midnight Excitement to create the eye look, which is coming out in September.  Of course she used Falsies Mascara. Below is a video of Miller creating the whole look on a model with step-by-step instructions.  It's awesome!

Breakfast at Tiffanys, Backstage at Monique Lhuillier

Backstage at the Monique Lhuillier fall 2011 show Val Garland for MAC and Jan Arnold for Creative Nail Design were joined by Odile Gilbert for Kerastase to create a glamourous yet edgy look. "The gowns are cleam, long and slender," commented Arnold. "Think Angelina Jolie in The Tourist."

The nail color was made of a combination of two shades layered on top of each other: Silver Chrome, Desert Suede and lined them with Dark Ameythest (which will debut in Fall 2011).

Gilbert created a twist of ponytils that were strategically placed and pinned around the head to resemble ribbons and added a black velvet bow into each of the models hair for a girly, Breakfast at Tiffanys effect.

Garland made the eyes the focal point of the face using a combination of blacks with deep plum for a smokey effect.

Sexy Siren Meets Old Hollywood, Backstage Lela Rose

I absolutely loved the look at the Lela Rose Fall 2011 show. Sarah Lucero from Stila was the lead on makeup, and she said the look was a “sultry, sexy siren with a vintage, old Hollywood feeling.” She used Stila’s Long Wear Lip Color in “daring” to get a powerful lip. She applied “gladiola,” a bright coral hue on the high plane of cheeks, to create an art deco feeling. The eyes were meant to be “really dreamy and hazy” with lots of beiges and a rosy shade in a heavy contour underneath. She wanted the lashes to be long and fluttery. The key element for this look was the skin—to even out under eye circles and redness, all the models used Clarisonic’s sonic skin cleansing system, which cleanses the skin 2 times better than manual cleansing. The brush oscillates against the skin to remove dirt from pores, and it lets all products that go on skin absorb more evenly. Models also used Clarisonic Opal Serum around the eyes to brighten and hydrate that area. I want to go out and buy these treatments pronto!

Deborah Lippmann provided the nails, and the color that all the models sported was a deep green shade called “billionaire.” Since the hair and makeup was so glam, this very wearable and earthy color was a nice contrast.

Devin Toth of the Ted Gibson Salon was the lead on hair, and in keeping with the old Hollywood theme, he created a strong side part with Tame It Shine Lotion. He then curled the right side of hair, freshened the wave out, and shaped it into a strong “s” wave. He used Beautiful Hold Hair Spray to help set the wave. The look is slightly different from regular Hollywood glam because the s wave is not as soft; it’s more severe and large, exaggerated French bobby pins were left in the models’ hair for the runway. To complete the look, he pulled hair into a low ponytail.

An Ethereal Winter Playground at Elise Overland

The Fall 2011 Elise Overland collection was presented on an ice rink at the Standard Hotel. To create this Icelandic “winter playground,” the models had an ethereal look. David Cruz for Tresemmé was the lead on hair, and he pulled all the models’ hair back into a ponytail from the roots, then made a fishtail braid and used the braid to form a kind of deconstructed bun. Since the designer’s collection was pretty big on texture, he didn’t want the models to look like animals and give them a lot of hair! The fishtail braid bun is simple and tightly frames the face, but still adds that extra pizzazz for the runway. Napoleon Perdis did the makeup, and the look was all about luminous skin. He avoided using creams and gels, and used minimal foundation so that more light would reflect off the models. To prep the skin, he applied Napoleon Complex Skin Renewal Serum and Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Primer.

He used cool undertones to make sure that the models had a glow on the ice rink. The eyes were very non fussy, with just a few coats of chocolate brown mascara and some Créme De La Cremé Eyeshadow in QuickSilver.  On the cheeks, he used a little bit of Cheek to Chic Blush Duo #6 and Light Patrol Luminizer Palette in Silver. And on the lips, just a light pink shade called “Electra.” The end result was clean and fresh, perfect for a night out on the ice!

Chinese Opera Beauties, Backstage Vivienne Tam

Vivienne Tam seemed like a theater production.  The theme was Chinese Oprah with a modern, edgy twist.

Leon Gorman, the lead stylist with Cutler and Redken created edgy updos that paired nicely with this seasons collection.  To create the look, he started by blow drying the hair straight with a round brush. Once dry, each girls hair was put into a pony tail and scrunched up into a bun by using a hair net (yes the ones you see women wearing in a cafeteria). Gorman used a hair dryer as he sprayed each girl’s hair to keep all the stray fly aways down. “The more we think about it the messier it gets,” he commented. The looked finished by having a Vivienne Tam hair piece sewn into under the updo.

Makeup was led by Maybelline's Andy Koh who commented, the idea behind the look is to “not have too much or too little anywhere,” but it was all about the eyes. He started the eyes with Maybelline Eye Studio in Pink Persuasion, a beige color all over the eyelid. Then, he added a thick layer of Maybelline Gel Liner in Blackest Black across the top of the lid with an eyeliner brush. Individual false eyelashes were added just to the outer corner of the eye to add a touch of drama in a modern way. For checks he used Maybelline Blush in FIT Deep Rose and Coral depending on the model’s skin tone where he applied it under the eyes and on the check bone to temple where he blended upwards. For lips, Maybelline Lipcolor in Born With It was his go-to.

Katherine Kim of Imcoo & Coco applied stick on nail color to just the tips of each nail to give the nails a luxury, glittery look. They looked like an old school French manicure with a twist.  The color was Imcoo & Coco Dry Nail Applique in Ruby Shoes.

Glamour and Decadence at Venexiana

The Venexiana fall 2011 show was bold and dramatic featuring clothes that ran the gamut from edgy, short leather dresses to cascading sequin evening gowns that I can only imagine being worn on the red carpet! Philip Pelusi from Tela Design Studio chose to do a “Venetian top knot” – the perfect medium between a classic French twist and a traditional top knot. This elegant hairstyle perfectly complimented the collection because it’s not too overpowering, yet not too simple either. Pelusi used his own Tela Beauty Organics line of products on the models’ hair. He used Dry Shampoo to instantly clean and rejuvenate the hair. After spritzing on hair, he applied a little bit of Composer, a damage and split end repair solution. It initially feels sticky but once you run it through the hair it gives more control, making the hair easy to twist into an updo.

Napoleon Perdis was the lead on makeup, and he told me that the look was influenced by Venexiana designer Kati Stern who is “Northern European, expensive and luxurious.”

Napoleon went all out with this look, choosing to make the whole face the focal point. He wanted to create intense black eyes that look aristocratic, and like they took effort. He used China Doll Eyeliner Equinox, Ultimate Contour Palette shadow, and coat after coat of Peep Show Mascara in Fantasia. To create a bold pout, Napoleon blended black cherry red and berry lipsticks from his line. He also used Cheek to Chic Blush Duo in #6 for a noticeable rosy flush.  The result was a modern, European inspired look that matched the very glamorous clothes.

Urban Eskimos Invaded the Runway at Rag & Bone

Backstage at Rag & Bone the inspiration was urban eskimo.  Loose braids sporatically placed throughout the hair that "look as if a girl did them herself as she day dreams about her boyfriend" were paired with windswept skin and rosy lips. The Redken lead stylist didn't want the braids to look too perfect.  Each model had two that were secured with a clear hair band and then pulled out a bit to make them looser.

Gucci Westman was the lead makeup artist for Revlon and leaned on a new Revlon compact that comes out in October to complete the look.  It featured a quad of what looked like a mix of lipsticks and eyeshadows. The lipstick was used not only on some of the models' lips to make them pinker, but also on the eye lids to create more texture.

Check out this video of Gucci Westman doing a model's full face:

Toni Francesc Pairs Green Dresses with Forest Inspired Beauty

“Urban Forest” was the theme backstage at Toni Francesc.  Lead makeup artist Jackie Mgido of Mehron cosmetics tied the makeup in this tough-meets-natural look by mixing earthy colors on the face with a pop of brightness at the eyes.  “Keep it natural and well-blended,” she advises, using a small brush to apply light cream foundation “only where needed.”  Jackie sought to promote healthy skin by creating a light glow; Mehron’s Celebra Foundation helps to achieve the look with ingredients like pomegranate and soothing aloe.  Plus, it’s oil free! On the eyes, Jackie uses cream eye shadow in bright yellows, blues, greens, and grays.  She especially recommends cream products in the winter, as dry eyelids take over.  Conveniently, cream shadow doesn’t need a base.  She notes that you can blend cream in nicely with just your fingertips.  Cream makeup translates to cheeks and lips as well; Jackie shows me a palette of saturated yet sheer multi-purpose hues that she uses on the cheeks solo and on the lips topped over foundation.

Hair at Toni was led by Nelson Cartaya of Salerm.  His team “re-created a forest in the models’ hair,” as Cartaya describes, through the intricate full-head braiding that conveyed a “purposely messy yet elegant” look.  The braids, some normal and others atypical, were haphazardly wrapped around the girls’ heads using bobby pins and rubber bands to fasten, creating an easy-going updo.  Products included Salerm Definition Nature hair spray and a bit of mousse, depending on the hair’s texture.  For every day, Cartaya says all you need for a casual look is a good haircut and some good products, sans the fuss.

Experience Backstage at Rosa Cha Through Video

I've been covering NY Fashion Week since my editorial job with Cosmopolitan magazine five years ago now and each season I have a new found appreciation for the art that goes on behind the scenes.  This year, I focused more on video and mixed it into my editorial because I wanted you to experience backstage just like I do. Watch as Ric Pipino explains how to get the chic chingnon and Nadine Luke of MAC explains tips on how she created the bold, colorful bird inspired look:

Hair:

Makeup after the jump...

Betsey Johnson Stays True to Herself for “Le deTour Betsey”

There’s nothing in the world that compares to a Betsey Johnson show. It is a true spectacle, and I was lucky to have the chance to attend her latest runway presentation. The vivacious designer always goes over the top, and her Spring/Summer 2011 collection consisted of her signature crazy neons and clashing patterns. The inspiration behind the collection was simply taking a bike ride through New York City. Sarah Lucero, the lead makeup artist for Stila said, “The look is optimistic, happy, and colorful.” Lucero wanted a “bright, bold green eye”  and accomplished it by wetting Fiji Palette no. 5 eyeshadow and painting it on like a thick paint splotch.  To complete the face she used a hot pink hue on the cheek and Caprice Long Wear Liquid Lip Color (another bold pink) on the pout.

Check out my pick of Betsey...

Nonie Creme, the Founder and Creative Director for Butter London of Beauty.com, created a fun, rainbow sherbet inspired color for the models nails. She applied a Pepto Bismol-like pink color, then Royal Navy, followed by a mustard yellow shade on the tip. “The idea was to create a very pop-art, retro kind of fingernail,” she said. (They did use press-on nails for obvious reasons).

Peter Gray for Redken was the lead on hair, and he was going for an athletic/punk and get this – a road kill vibe. The models sported a mix of dreadlocks, teased waves, and spiky hair. Even though there were a variety of looks, they all sported visible hair bands in bright hues throughout the hair that were made of the same light and loose material as hosiery.

Lead manicurist, Creme told me, “Betsey isn’t driven by global trends--you have to love her commitment to her customer,” and I have to agree. Betsey proves that whimsical, girly clothes don’t have an age, and most importantly, that fashion should be fun!

Halston Kicks Off the Season with A Natural Look

Worn by Sarah Jessica Parker (who was at the show tonight), and other hot celebrities; Halston is one designer that knows how to set trends. Despite the down pour the show went on and the audience was packed at Gladstone’s Gallery in New York. Halston showed off their designs and fresh, natural look for this season. I went backstage for Beautysweetspot to get all the tricks of the trade in creating what the pros called – the perfect natural look. Inspired by the 1960’s and 70’s, MAC’s head makeup artist, Amora, shares a few secrets in creating a “no makeup” look. The team dabbled on foundation with a brush in a circular motion to polish the skin while giving it great coverage.  For a natural flush, Amora applied blush with her fingers in the center of the models cheek. The eyes lashes were absolutely amazing, and I found out the secret is to make sure the mascara’s brush is spikier and rubbery, similar to a comb. To get these lashes apply lots of product and separate the lashes one by one with brush. To do this take the mascara brush and bend up in layers to separate and lengthen. To complete the natural look, skip the eye liner.

Every girl knows that hair is the most important accessory worn with any outfit. Head hairstylist, Bob Recine and the Barex Style Team had two looks for the models at this year’s show. First, they started with Barex Gloss Strong Hold Mousse, which was applied to damp hair for added volume. The hair was then center parted and blow dried straight. Their bangs were pinned back creating a “V” shape to help... avoid lift. The look was completed by using Barex Gloss Hairspray to make sure all the strands stayed perfectly in place.

The second look was a sophisticated bun. The bun was created by first having two pig tails. Recine created the look by twisting the pig tails back and forth like a figure eight. He then used bobby pins to hold it in place.

Lead by Pattie Yankee, Dashing Diva once again proved they owned the runways – opting for a natural look that wouldn't clash with the designs. Two coats of the shade East River View was applied on light skinned models and  one coat of Chelsie in the Buff on darker skinned models.  Halston’s look this season of natural, fresh, makeup, hair, and nails is perfect for any woman to wear to work, running errands, or simply having brunch on Sundays.

Gossip Girl Designer, Lorick Showcased Rosy Makeup & Finger Combed Buns

I was actually giddy to attend the spring 2011 presentation of the real designer behind Eleanor Waldorf’s creations on Gossip Girl.  Since the start of the hit CW show, Abigail Lorick has successfully carved a name for herself in the fashion industry, being widely recognized for her girly garments that have very clean and tailored silhouettes. I was really excited to see what this former model envisioned for her own models to look like wearing her latest Lorick collection. I first went backstage at the intimate Tela Tea Room studio to talk to the show’s lead on hair, Jeffrey Rice of Philip Pelusi Salons, who was busy perfecting a low, messy bun on one of the models.  The look is “very soft, easy, and breezy…almost like the models did it themselves – casual, yet put together.”

Rubbing a combination of Beach Color, an organic product with a sugar granule texture, and Refresh Hair, which acts as a dry cleaner for the hair between his palms, Rice finger combed the models hair and softly wrapped it into a messy bun leaving hair band fully exposed – no bobby pins.

The key to the makeup was highlighting the skin and lead makeup artist, Deanna Melluso of Temptu, kept it minimal enhancing the models natural features.  A light dewy mouth and a generous amount of Temptu's Peony blush on the apples of the cheeks (but not clownish at all) was all that was needed. A

Dashing Diva's lead manicurist Pattie Yankee applied Chelsea In The Buff to all the ladies nails.  The shade is a nude, sheer color that goes well with the pastel color palette of the Lorick collection. The neutral color didn’t take away from the clothes at all, and was still very feminine, in keeping with the mood of the show.

Tons of Makeup at Costello Tagliapietra, But You'd Never Know

Back at Milk Studios today the scene was surprisingly calm and well organized for the Costello Tagliapietra show.  With 23 models coming from prior shows who needed to be molded into the Costello girl, stylists and artists were busy at work, but seemed anything but frantic. All of the girls wore high side buns directly above their left ears.  "It's a throwback," commented Nelson Vercher, the lead stylist from the Rita Hazan Salon.  "Back in the day ladies used to wear their hair like this when they wore hats."  He used Phytovolume Actif Maximizing Volume Spray to create texture, but then just a piece of elastic to secure the ponytail that he wrapped and tied, wrapped and tied about three times and cut the ends.  It's definitely not practical for the every day girl, but a sweet backstage trick.  After looping the hair around itself he secured with bobby pins and sprayed with L'Oreal Elnett Hair Spray.

The coolest thing about the look was the makeup.  The models fresh faces looked like they were barely wearing any at all, but of course they had tons on.  I learned a great trick from MAC makeup artist, Lisa Butler, about how to wear makeup while keeping your skin looking fresh and dewy.... When applying foundation place a blob on the top of your hand along with a blob of your daily moisturizer right next to it.  Use a big brush and begin applying your foundation.  Use light layers and when certain areas don't need as much coverage (maybe your forehead) mix in some moisturizer with your foundation to dilute it and keep your skin dewy.  On other areas (like your chin) that may need heavier coverage, go heavier with the foundation and don't mix in the moisturizer.  The key is to layer lightly.

The nails were all buffed clean by Lancome.

I Got Cozy At Lincoln Center for the First Time Backstage at Farah Angsana

My first trip to Fashion Week's new home at Lincoln Center was for the Farah Angsana show.  Skeptical at first, I felt more welcomed than I thought I would as I pulled up in a cab on the upper west side to fashionistas gathering around the fountain.  It felt like home.  Bye, bye Bryant Park, everyone was here. Nineteen models were made up with soft metallic lids and romantic curls. "Farah's obsessed with J.Lo," commented Gregg Hubbard the lead makeup artist for Cristo. "Everything needs to be about the J.Lo glow!"  And in a way, it was – the eyes at least.  The bronzed eye was created with Bobbi Brown Cream Shadow in Gold Stone, which is a great base and layerable as a shadow.  The lip? A coral gloss.

It was great to see a Rita Hazan stylist backstage whipping up... some haute hair! Eddie Ngai created three romantic looks for the girls that consisted of straight with bounce, a structured updo and and soft and sexy.  Soft and full texture is key to the romantic theme.

Dashing Diva's lead manicurist Pattie Yankee did full mani's and pedi's on the ladies with No More Alimony, a shiny nude metallic shade.  One model fell asleep while getting her hair done at the same time of her mani and pedi!

Models Sport Heavy Makeup & Texturized Buns at Vena Cava

This morning I headed over to Milk Studios to take a peek backstage before the Vena Cava show.  Ted Gibson was on hair, MAC on makeup and Butter London on nails.  It was show one of day one and all of the talent, models and journalists looked refreshed and ready to take fashion week for all it's worth! "These girls aren't afraid of a strong look, they're walking for Vena Cava," remarked Lloyd Simomonds of MAC cosmetics.  The makeup was heavy to say the least.  Inspired by Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface, a full face of metallic navy blue shadows complimented by coral lips and cheeks gave off an ultra glam effect.

To my surprise, Butter London of Beauty.com was doing nails backstage and word has it, they're doing tons of shows this year.  To make sure all of the manis were perfectly uniform, they used press on nails that were self adhesive.  "We created a new twist on the 1/2 moon manicure by making it more graphic and less vintage," commented Creative Director Nonie Creme.  With two coats of grey and one of stark black, they were crisp, short and bold.

One of my fave stylists of all times, master mind, Ted Gibson of Beauty.com was working his magic on hair.  I caught Mr. Gibson explaining the look backstage on video.  Check it out:

Come Backstage With BeautySweetSpot and Meet Our Fashion Week Team!

As WWD reported today, "the circus is in town," only this one includes models, celebrities and fashionistas!  And don't forget the journalists.  That's right, I'll be backstage reporting on the hottest hair, makeup and nail trends for over 20 of this September's Spring/Summer 2011 shows. But I won't be doing it alone, my BeautySweetSpot.com intern, Carly Nelson will be joining as well as my intern from last spring, Jasmine Dilmanian.  They're both fab writers and ready to stiletto stomp into the new tents of Lincoln Center and beyond.

So what can you expect from this killer team?  Interviews with the greatest editorial and celebrity hair stylists, makeup artists, manicurists and designers.  Shows we'll be attending include – Vena Cava, Doo Ri, Max Azria, Walter, Betsey Johnson, Halston, Rachel Roy, Rosa Cha, Nanette Lepore, Tory Burch and J. Mendel.

Stay tuned!  You can follow my live from backstage tweets @beautysweetspot!