How to Sculpt Your Face in 3 Simple Steps

Earlier this week I was sitting in what I like to call "Beauty School," a MAC Pro Master Class lead by world famous makeup artist, James Kaliardos, (he's done Vogue, Allure and V magazine covers as well as every celeb imaginable from Gaga and Madonna to Lenny Kravitz).  I sat taking note of all of his application tips and tricks, but my eyes lit up when he began explaining how to use makeup to mimic Oprah lighting.  Oprah lighting! Now, let me explain.  When I'm on a shoot or doing a TV segment I always get excited when I see the producers setting up the diva lights.  Lighting is everything and Oprah's studio had the best lighting in the industry.  Everyone looks good in Oprah lighting.  Yes, even Rosie O'Donnell (almost?).

Kaliardos explained that when working with photographers he couldn't always rely on lighting because of shoot locations and often had to mimic Oprah lighting with makeup to ensure the models' or celebrities' skin would look three dimensionally flawless.  His secret?  He builds up the face with different tones of concealor and foundation.  Here's how:

1. Starting with a cleansed face, heavily apply moisturizer with a brush to prep your canvas.

2. Using the same brush, use a creamy concealor that's a shade lighter than your skin tone and sweep it under your eyes (from the inner corners out), around your nostrils, on your chin and on your forehead.  Blend it in and out.  This helps to sculpt and lift up the planes of your face and add dimension.

3. Use two foundations.  One just a half a shade darker and one that matches perfectly.  Using the same brush, take the darker one and just hit your temples and underneath your cheekbones.  Fill in the rest of your face with the other and blend.

Backstage Erin Fetherston Was A Wonderland

Though a product of the '90's, I've always loved the style of the sixties. The voluminous hair, the bright colors, and all of the eye makeup! When I stepped backstage at Erin Fetherston, I knew I had walked into a personal fairytale land. Esther Langham for Alterna on Beauty.com created four hair looks to complement Erin's Spring/Summer collection; a french twist, low side ponytail, low middle ponytail, and braided top knot.

All of these styles started with creating volume by backcombing the hair and spraying with Alterna's Bamboo Volume Uplifting Root Blast. Then it was tousled to give it a natural feel. To help style, Esther used Alterna's Bamboo Volume Weightless Whipped Mousse. Each look was finished with Alterna's Bamboo Smooth Anti- Humidity Hair Spray.

Though each look was beautiful, the one I know I will be copying is the ponytail. Start by backcombing the hair and creating a two inch center part. Secure the ponytail at the nape of the neck and wrap a section of hair around the elastic. In minutes you've got the perfect Sharon Tate style hair.

The nails by Nonie Creme of Butter London were super special. Nonie and Erin collaborated to create a custom color for the collection. They blended "Tea with the Queen" and "Pink Ribbon" to create a subdued and simple manicure.

The make up by James Kaliardos for MAC was absolutely stunning. Mia Farrow inspired, the look was youthful and whimsical. The skin was left bare except for Match Master Foundation and Peach blush on the cheeks. The eyes and the lips stole the show with their dramatic finishes. The eyes, like the nail polish, were custom made for Erin's show. The false lashes were cut on the ends and longer in the center (Like Mia Farrow's haircut in Rosemary's Baby for the eyes!). The lashes were then coated in many layers of Opulash Black Mascara. For the shadow and liner, James used Blacktrack as a base with Carbon on top to create a very dark look. To highlight and make the eyes bigger, he put SuperSlick in silver under the eyes and smudged Luna in the corners. To really emphasize the fun, bright style, James finished with lipstick in either Flamingo (light pink), orange, or dark pink.

Makeup artist Caitlin Callahan's tip to try the look at home (which I did as soon as I got back to my apartment) was to do the smoky eye in just one color as opposed to the tri-color most of us are used to. Make sure the lashes are curled and use extra mascara in the center. Most importantly, don't shy away from the bright lip! Erin showed us that it IS possible to do a smoky eye with a lipstick that isn't nude!

^Even Erin had her makeup done like the models!